At Sue Perette, a new Brooklyn bistro on Smith street, you can find the chef Benoit Rouan completing his tour de force; an ambitious rotating menu featuring a new traditional region of France each month. Aptly called a Tour de France, the menu takes its inspiration from each region, this month drawing from Franche Comte, where brooks and fisheries are abound, and of course, fromageries are plentiful. The little restaurant, settled into the heart of Brooklyn’s booming restaurant row has a big mission. Like the original Parisian incarnations, this true French gem prides itself on offering traditionally prepared dishes, while the new monthly menu excites the locals and brings fresh and seasonal ingredients to their keen Carroll Gardens following.
Details like the timely arrival of an infused olive oil, presented in a petite ramekin, and fresh bread from a local Brooklyn bakery were not under-appreciated by me and my hungry dining partner. The octopus starter was lusciously crisp, perfectly grilled and delicately plated. You could feel the polished french artistry as the pieces of tender tentacle melt in your mouth. The mussel stew with a fish sauce of trout and salmon was an exquisite dish. Though, to call the fish medley a sauce might be a bit deceiving. The large chunks of lightly seared fresh fish swam in a light cream, and were highlights of the flavor profiles. They call it the Atlantic answer to Bouillabaisse. I call it the perfect spring dish.
When done properly, a souffle is a joy of flavor, impossibly light and never, never, never comes out from the oven less than perfectly puffed. Consider Sue Perette’s chocolate fondant souffle their Arc de Triomphe. Whichever regions of France you visit with their dynamic menu, make this your ultimate destination. The airy souffle manages to simultaneously produce an unbridled rich creamy flavor.
When it comes to Wine, Sue Perette practices a xenophobia I can stand behind. The list of French wines features an intimate group from different regions. We chose a 2010 Domaine Puech Cocut Pinot Noir, befitting to the Burgundy regionally inspired meal. All in all, Sue Perette is worth frequenting and I’ll surely return for the next savory voyage.
